Kranachberg Sauvignon Blanc – 2019

Sauvignon Blanc Kranachberg from Sattlerhof reveals the smoky side of the vineyard

Sauvignon Blanc Kranachberg from Weingut Sattlerhof is a single-vineyard wine from the historic core of the Kranachberg, grown on a ridge with an 80 percent slope. The 2019 vintage has left its youth behind, layering ripe pear over a cool, smoky minerality.

Sauvignon Blanc Kranachberg is a single-vineyard wine from the Große STK Ried above Gamlitz, harvested at an altitude of 450 meters above sea level. The ridge faces south and drops off at an 80 percent incline, making it impossible for machinery to gain a foothold. Alexander Sattler and his crew carry every crate down the slope, and this effort is exactly what you can taste in the bottle later on.

Ripe pear, aromatic dill, and white pepper

If you give this wine some air, you are first greeted by spicy herbs and ripe pears in the glass. Behind them lie yellow tropical fruits that rise slowly and unhurriedly from the depths.

Then the aromatic dill for which the 2019 vintage is known emerges, accompanied by white pepper. Beneath this remains a mineral coolness, reminiscent of cold smoke, that holds the entire bouquet together. On the palate, there is great intensity, sustained by a juicy balance that supports the enormous length rather than having to assert it.

It is dry without any harshness, and the years in the cellar have gently rounded off its edges. Today, the wine feels both composed and supple, without sacrificing any of its tension.

Crustaceans, robust fish, and a long evening

Crustaceans are the obvious counterpart, along with robust pan-seared fish or asparagus with brown butter. An Asian dish is also a possibility, as its spice cannot overpower this wine.

Because it possesses such pressure and length, it stands up to a main course that one would otherwise reserve for a red. Roasted rack of veal with fennel is one such plate, as is a risotto featuring lemon and herbs. In the house kitchen, run by Markus Sattler, such dishes are served alongside the family's single-vineyard wines.

The 2019 vintage has reached its peak form, which will last through 2033 and beyond. There is no reason to rush, as every additional year in the cellar shifts the profile from fruit to spice. When you open it, a decanter is recommended because the wine practically demands air.

Steep ridge above Gamlitz and hand-harvesting

The vineyard drops off so steeply that every task must be performed on foot. Harvesting is done entirely by hand, crate by crate, so that not a single berry bursts along the way.

In the cellar, the must spent 12 to 16 hours on the skins, significantly longer than for younger vintages of this vineyard. This is precisely the source of the density with which this wine coats the tongue. It was fermented in steel tanks, followed by 18 months on the fine lees, and a gentle filtration only occurred after long sedimentation.

The 2019 vintage carries the Lacon organic certification; the estate's conversion to biodynamics only took effect from 2021 onwards. The entire assortment can be found at Weingut Sattlerhof, alongside other white wines and wines from Austria. The Alter Kranachberg 2021 shows the same site under its current name, with a slightly tauter structure.

Sauvignon Blanc Kranachberg – a wine and its values

• Origin: Wine from Austria
• Region: Südsteiermark DAC
• Quality level: Riedenwein, Große STK Ried
• Site: Ried Kranachberg
• Grape variety: Sauvignon Blanc
• 13.5% vol. alcohol
• 6.4 g/l acidity
• 1.1 g/l residual sugar
• Aging: Steel tank
• Peak form until: 2033
• Falstaff: 97 points
• Robert Parker: 95 points
• Gault Millau: 19.5 points
• Vinum: 4 stars
• Wine100 China: Silver medal
• Contains sulfites
• Vegan
• Organically certified by Lacon

Organic inspection body AT-BIO-402 – Austrian Agriculture