Sauvignon Blanc Kofl – 2023

Sauvignon Blanc Kofl from Cantina Kurtatsch on Quartz and Dolomite

The 2023 Sauvignon Blanc Kofl from Cantina Kurtatsch is a young single-vineyard wine from a steep site above Penon, harvested with reduced yields. Not a broad summer wine and not a product of the valley floor, but a taut Sauvignon that prioritizes its origin over the grape variety.

The 2023 Sauvignon Blanc Kofl from Cantina Kurtatsch is a South Tyrolean single-vineyard white wine from their terroir line, bottled in 750-milliliter bottles. "Kofl" means mountain peak in the Alpine dialect, and that is exactly what lies above the hamlet of Penon, at an altitude between 450 and 600 meters. At 13.5 percent alcohol, it remains taut because the cool nights preserve its acidity.

A mountain peak above the hamlet of Penon

On the Kofl, sand and gravel lie over dolomite and quartz, and this lean subsoil gives the vines little and demands a lot from them.

Yields are capped at 50 hectoliters per hectare, which is exceptionally low for a white wine. Fewer grapes on the vine mean denser berries in the crate, and that is precisely what this wine thrives on. The harvest at the Kofl is later than down in the valley because the mountain slows down ripening.

In addition, there are the katabatic winds that blow from the mountain into the Etsch Valley in the evening, dropping the temperature by several degrees. The grapes cool down overnight and retain their tension. Harvesting is done early in the morning, by hand, and into small crates.

Elderflower, exotic notes, and a green bite

It appears light straw-yellow in the glass, and the nose features elderflower, gooseberry, and a hint of exotic fruit side-by-side, without any one of them pushing to the forefront.

On the palate, it starts off taut, runs straight through, and only allows the salty length—which the site inscribes into every vintage—to emerge late. Vinified dry, it shows no sweetness, but rather a green bite reminiscent of kiwi.

Anyone placing the regional wine next to it will hear the difference by the second sip. While the regional wine speaks primarily of the grape variety, this one speaks of the hillside.

With Vitello tonnato and grilled vegetables

Vitello tonnato with plenty of lemon has in this wine a partner that picks up the capers and prevents the sauce from feeling heavy.

Grilled zucchini, seafood, and goat cheese with a herb crust are equally well-suited, and it finds its way to South Tyrolean Schlutzkrapfen (spinach-filled pasta) quite naturally. A plate of spaghetti with clams also pairs well with it. Serve at 11 to 13 degrees Celsius, preferably in a larger glass, as it does not thrive in confinement.

The simpler interpretation of the same grape variety can be found in the Sauvignon Blanc as a regional wine, and the non-alcoholic version is available as Sauvignon Blanc grape juice.

The vintage is still in its infancy

Those opening it today should give it half an hour in the glass, as young single-vineyard wines need air before they reveal themselves. Taken out of the cellar, it needs ten minutes before it opens up in the nose.

Four to five years in a cool cellar will treat it well. With each of these years, the herbal spiciness will move further in front of the fruit. Further wines from the south of South Tyrol can be found in the Cantina Kurtatsch assortment. The hillside has the final say.

Origin, values, and awards

• Origin: Wine from Italy
• Region: South Tyrol - Alto Adige DOC
• Grape variety: Sauvignon Blanc
• 13.5% vol. alcohol
• 6.3 g/l acidity
• 2.5 g/l residual sugar
• Awards 2023: 95 points Gold Decanter World Wine Awards, 93 points James Suckling, 92 points Falstaff, 91 points Robert Parker, 90 points Wine Enthusiast, Gold Golden Grape Awards