Grauvernatsch – 2024

Light 2024 Grauvernatsch from Cantina Kurtatsch in South Tyrol

The 2024 Grauvernatsch from Cantina Kurtatsch is a light South Tyrolean red wine. It is not a heavy red or an oak-aged wine, but rather a light red everyday wine made from the local Schiava grigia grape, which can be served chilled straight from the refrigerator without losing any of its character.

The 2024 Grauvernatsch from Cantina Kurtatsch is a single-varietal Vernatsch from South Tyrol, where this grape has been at home for centuries, though it is little known outside the region. Grauvernatsch is known as Schiava grigia in Italian and is considered the most demanding clone of a large family. With 12 percent alcohol, it remains the lightest red in the cellar, with a light color and soft tannins.

Cherry, wild berries, and an almond finish

It appears light red and almost translucent in the glass. Those who expected a dark, densely woven red will be thoroughly surprised by this South Tyrolean wine.

On the nose, cherry and wild berries are immediately present, accompanied by that herbal note that the variety almost always brings with it. On the palate, it is juicy; the tannins remain soft and broad, and the finish features the almond-like bitterness that is the hallmark of a Vernatsch.

Chilled with pizza, sausage, and mild evenings

Served at 13 degrees Celsius straight from the fridge, it is in its element. The chill makes it taut and lively, whereas a warm room would make it feel heavy within just a few minutes.

It pairs perfectly with pizza salsiccia, pasta with tomato sauce, or a "Brettljause" platter with speck and Schüttelbrot—situations where most red wines would surrender. The acidity of the tomato doesn't clash with it because the wine brings enough freshness of its own and never pushes itself to the forefront.

The white counterpart from the same cellar is the Pinot Grigio, and further South Tyrolean specialties for a snack can be found with Eggerhof from South Tyrol.

Concrete instead of wood and restricted yields

The vines grow on sandy and loamy soils with dolomite, clay minerals, and oxides. The breezy, sunny hillside locations between 300 and 450 meters provide this demanding clone with exactly the ventilation it needs.

Yields are restricted to 80 hectoliters per hectare, which is the crucial preparatory work in the vineyard for a productive variety like Vernatsch. If you let it grow unchecked, you get volume and pale color; if you restrict it, you get juice and aroma.

It is aged not in wood, but in large concrete vats on the fine lees. Concrete breathes a little but does not impart any flavor of its own, which is why this wine tastes of grapes and terroir rather than barrels.

The red wine that needs no explanation

A late summer evening on the terrace, the bottle in the fridge for twenty minutes. Suddenly, the table is drinking a red wine even though usually only white wine is poured.

James Suckling gave the previous vintage 92 points, which is an unusual accolade for a wine in this light class. It is best enjoyed within the first two years after harvest, as it is not meant for long-term aging. More from the south of the region can be found in the Cantina Kurtatsch range. This is how Vernatsch is done.

Origin and values

• Origin: Wine from Italy
• Region: South Tyrol - Alto Adige DOC
• Grape variety: Grauvernatsch
• 12.0% ABV alcohol
• 4.8 g/l acidity
• 2.0 g/l residual sugar