Sauvignon Blanc Fumé – 2023

Oliver Zeter's Sauvignon Blanc Fumé from the Oak Barrel

Oliver Zeter's Sauvignon Blanc Fumé is a Sauvignon Blanc from the Palatinate region that undergoes spontaneous fermentation in oak barrels and is subsequently aged on the fine lees for many months. For the 2023 vintage, Falstaff awarded it 94 points in its Sauvignon Blanc Trophy.

Sauvignon Blanc Fumé 2023 is a dry white wine that Oliver Zeter vinifies from the oldest parcels of his Palatinate vineyards and matures in wood. With 13% ABV and juicy acidity, Vinous assesses it as having great aging potential.

Eucalyptus, mint, and ripe yellow fruit

In the nose of the 2023 Sauvignon Blanc Fumé, Falstaff finds eucalyptus, an appealing woody spice, and ripe yellow fruit, accompanied by a touch of mint. Vinous describes smoke, peach, and nectarine, and even a hint of corn husk. The tasters at wein.plus identify herbal tones reminiscent of arugula and lemongrass.

On the palate, according to Falstaff, it has enormous pressure and a stringent, mint-infused flavor profile. The juicy acidity provides a freshness that recalls passion fruit, keeping it lively and light-hearted despite its fullness. A fine melt remains on the finish, accompanied by a chalky, salty minerality.

Wild fermentation in French oak

After pressing, the Fumé must goes directly into French oak barrels, some of which are new while others have held previous vintages. Fermentation begins there on its own, triggered by the natural yeasts from the grapes. As a result, it proceeds more slowly and with more complexity than with added cultured yeast.

The barrels Oliver Zeter uses for this hold 300 and 500 liters, making them larger than the classic 225-liter barrique. In a larger barrel, every liter of wine has less contact with the wood, allowing the oak to contribute spice and a hint of smoke while the fruit of the grape variety remains at the forefront.

In addition to Falstaff's 94 points, the 2023 vintage also received 93 points from Vinous and 91 points from the wine guide wein.plus. The tasters at wein.plus see its drinking window opening in 2026 and lasting well into the 2030s.

Corn-fed chicken, grilled salmon, and lemon risotto

With corn-fed chicken with tarragon, grilled salmon, or a risotto with lemon zest and fresh herbs, the Fumé shows how well wood and freshness harmonize. Its minty spice picks up on the herbal notes. The juicy acidity effortlessly stands up to the fat of salmon and crispy chicken skin.

At 10 to 12 degrees Celsius, woody spice and fruit find their balance, so you should let the bottle sit on the table for a few minutes after taking it out of the fridge before pouring. If you store a few bottles, you can follow over the years how the woody spice and fruit continue to integrate in this wine.

The successor is available as Sauvignon Blanc Fumé 2024; the stainless steel counterpart is the Sauvignon Blanc 2025. Our product knowledge article on barriques explains how wood shapes wine. The estate's other wines can be found in our Oliver Zeter collection.

Sauvignon Blanc Fumé 2023 – a white wine and its technical data

• Origin Germany
• Region Palatinate
• Oliver Zeter, Neustadt an der Weinstraße
• Grape variety Sauvignon Blanc
• Maturation in wooden barrels, concrete eggs, and stainless steel
• 13% ABV alcohol
• 2.3 g/l residual sugar
• 7.0 g/l acidity
• 94 points Falstaff
• 93 points Vinous
• 91 points wein.plus