Sand & Pebbles – 2020

Sand & Kiesel 2020 from the Rings winery matures in a concrete egg instead of wood

Sand & Kiesel 2020 from the Rings winery is a dry Portugieser from Freinsheim that is completely free of any oak notes. Whole grapes macerate, native yeasts handle the fermentation, and then the red wine spends 18 months in a concrete egg, which keeps it leaner and fresher than its predecessor.

Sand & Kiesel 2020 is a bone-dry red wine from the Rings winery in Freinsheim, pressed from pure Portugieser from 40 to 60-year-old vines. At 12.0 percent alcohol, it is one of the more nimble reds from the Palatinate, even though the grapes from light sand and gravel soils bring a dark, concentrated fruit character.

Cool forest berries, cherry pit, and a fine peppery spice

The bouquet remains cool and upright, with dark forest berries, the tart hint of cherry pit, and a touch of dark chocolate in the background.

On the palate, this vintage is noticeably leaner than the 2019, but clearer in its fruit and more agile. The acidity carries further than the tannin, which is fine and almost restrained. The peppery spice sits in the finish and keeps the wine alert.

Lightly chilled at 14 to 16 degrees, this freshness stands out clearly; at room temperature, the wine loses its beautiful tension. Here too, a fine sediment remains in the bottle because it was bottled unfiltered.

With lamb sausage, tomato sugo, and ratatouille

A lean red with fresh acidity pairs well with dishes that heavier wines fail at because they lack agility.

Obvious choices are a grilled lamb sausage with rosemary, pasta with a slowly reduced tomato sugo, or a ratatouille of peppers, zucchini, and eggplant. In all three cases, the acidity of the wine meets the acidity on the plate, and the peppery vein picks up the herbs.

A plate with air-dried ham, olives, and mild sheep's milk cheese belongs in the same category and needs no heavier wine alongside it. For those who prefer it denser and warmer, reach for the 2019 vintage matured in oak barrels, and further German wines can be found in the adjacent category.

What the concrete egg does for the wine

Concrete in the cellar is neither wood nor steel, but lies exactly in between, and this intermediate position is the reason for the investment.

Unlike a barrel, concrete does not impart any aroma, so no vanilla or toasted notes enter the wine. However, unlike a steel tank, the wall is porous and allows tiny amounts of oxygen to pass through over the months. This slowly rounds out the tannin without the fruit losing any character. This is exactly the middle ground the Rings brothers seek for a red that should become soft while still remaining crisp.

Then there is the shape. In an egg, there is no corner where the yeast could settle and remain, and the temperature differences in the container keep a gentle current in motion. The wine thus stirs its fine yeast itself, for 18 months and without intervention, which gives it suppleness and depth. More bottles from the Rings brothers can be found in the winery's assortment.

Sand & Kiesel 2020 – a red wine and its specifications

• Origin Germany
• Growing region Palatinate
• Winery Rings
• Grape variety 100% Portugieser
• 12.0% vol alcohol
• 0.0 g/l residual sugar
• 6.3 g/l acidity

Organic control number – DE-ÖKO-022 German Agriculture