Grappa

Grappa is an Italian pomace brandy, a spirit made from fermented pomace, which is the solid residue of grapes left over from pressing.

Grappa is an Italian pomace brandy, a spirit made from fermented pomace—the solid remains of grapes left over after pressing.

Grappa is, therefore, what is left over from wine, and that is precisely what makes it so unique. The grapes are pressed, the must goes on its way to becoming wine, and the pomace is left behind. This is then distilled without first being made into wine. Consequently, three things determine the final taste of the grappa: the grapes from which the pomace originates, the distiller, and the time spent in wood.

What kind of spirit is grappa?

It is a pomace brandy, and the EU strictly regulates what that means. Pomace brandy is produced exclusively from fermented grape pomace, which is distilled directly with steam or after the addition of water. Every distillation must remain below 86% ABV, and the first distillation must take place in the presence of the pomace itself. A maximum of 25 kg of lees may be added per 100 kg of pomace. Alcohol may not be added, the brandy may not be flavored, and it must be bottled at a minimum of 37.5% ABV.

Furthermore, "Grappa" is a protected name. According to the technical specifications for the geographical indication, only a pomace brandy whose grapes were grown and pressed in Italy and which is distilled and bottled in Italy may bear this name. A pomace brandy from Baden may be excellent, but it cannot be called Grappa.

Distilleria Marzadro in Trentino shows how this craft becomes a family story. After twelve years of working for a member of parliament in Rome, Sabina Marzadro returned home and had a small still built by the coppersmith Arnoldi in their old house in Brancolino di Nogaredo. In 1949, the first carts full of pomace arrived at the courtyard. Her brother Attilio helped with the distilling and delivered the bottles to Rovereto and the surrounding villages using a Moto Guzzi with a sidecar; he took over the distillery in 1960.

Is grappa a brandy?

No, even though both come from grapes. Brandy is distilled from wine, while grappa is distilled from pomace. And brandy must be aged: at least one year in oak containers of at least 1,000 liters or six months in smaller oak casks, and it is sold at a minimum of 36% ABV. Grappa, on the other hand, can be bottled young and clear. For grappa, time in wood is a choice, not a requirement.

Those who make this choice may state it on the label. Vecchia or invecchiata refers to a grappa that has been aged for at least 12 months in wooden containers, under the supervision of tax authorities and in Italy; riserva or stravecchia refers to one that has been in wood for at least 18 months. The use of caramel for coloring is only permitted for grappa that has been aged for at least 12 months. This is the litmus test when buying: the terms are regulated, and anyone who reads them knows exactly how long the grappa has been in wood.

What does grappa taste like?

It tastes of the grapes from which the pomace comes and what the distiller makes of them. Marzadro demonstrated the importance of the grape variety in 1975. The house released a grappa made from pure Marzemino pomace from nearby Isera, and Marzadro describes its success as the varietal aroma, the richness of the grape, and the hand of the distiller all combining into a whole that until then seemed to belong only to wine.

Then there is the fire. At Marzadro, it was initially lit directly under the still; by the late seventies, copper pot stills with water baths were introduced. The still sits in water that transfers heat to the pomace, making the heating process slower. The steam absorbs the aromas and the alcohol, and Marzadro notes that this makes the grappa softer and more fragrant; the process simply requires more time. Since 2004, the family has been distilling in Nogaredo, one kilometer from Brancolino, using eight such stills.

Finally, the wood decides, and the product guide for barrique explains what a small barrel does in this process. The Grappa Stravecchia Le Diciotto Lune, in the program since 2002, is created from selected Trentino pomace and aged for at least 18 months in small casks made of various noble woods. Eighteen moons—that is what is contained in the name, and that is how much patience is inside the bottle.

How do you drink grappa?

Chilled, but not cold, and from the right glass. The Consorzio Nazionale Grappa recommends serving young and young aromatic grappas between 9 and 13 °C, and aged ones at 17 °C. When in doubt, it is better to serve it slightly too cool, as the hand warms the glass while drinking. The glass should be a medium-sized tulip glass holding 100 to 150 milliliters, bulbous and not too narrow at the top, made of crystal or ringing glass. The Consorzio advises against using balloon glasses or snifters with a narrow chimney.

Place a young grappa in the refrigerator for a while before the meal, while an aged one stays in the cupboard. It is drunk in small sips after the meal, once the espresso is already on the table. A drop left in the glass, a piece of dark chocolate on the side, and the conversation continues a little longer.

Grappa from Nogaredo

All bottles can be found under Grappa. Marzadro offers the Trentina Grappa Tradizionale, the Trentina Grappa Morbida barrique, and Le Diciotto Lune, the stravecchia with at least 18 months in wood. Those wishing to compare several grappas should choose the tasting set, and for gifting, there is the grappa gift set with glasses.

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