Apple Balsamic

Apple Balsamic from Greenomic Delikatessen, mild and rounded

Apple Balsamic from Greenomic Delikatessen is a mild Italian balsamic vinegar made from cooked grape must, wine vinegar, and apple juice. Of all the flavored varieties from the producer, it is the most understated, making it suitable even where a dark Aceto would be too overpowering.

Apple Balsamic is a sweet and fruity balsamic vinegar that Greenomic Delikatessen produces in an Italian acetaia and ages for one year in oak barrels. The 250-milliliter bottle features a wooden cap and a handmade pourer, from which the rich brown vinegar emerges slowly and drop by drop. It belongs on salads, roasts, and cheese platters.

Rich brown, mellow, and apple-sweet

When poured, the balsamic reveals golden reflections and flows syrupy along the spoon without splashing. Its aroma is that of ripe apples, but tempered, as if layered with warm wood. There is nothing sharp about it, not even the first impression from the open bottle.

In the mouth, the sweetness of the must leads, followed by the apple with its friendly acidity; both remain mellow rather than sharp. This mildness is why the Apple Balsamic also appeals to people who otherwise do not care for dark Aceto.

On leaf salad, with roast pork, over cheese

For a dressing, whisk two tablespoons of balsamic with six tablespoons of olive oil, adding salt, pepper, and a teaspoon of mustard. A salad of young greens, fennel strips, or shaved beetroot works well with this. If you like, add a drop of honey and omit the mustard.

For roast pork, add it to the pan drippings, where the apple note cuts through the richness and rounds out the sauce. It provides a fruity counterpoint over goat cheese, young sliced cheese, or baked Camembert, and in oven-roasted vegetables with pumpkin or carrots, it caramelizes during the final minutes of cooking. In a marinade for poultry, it works overnight and makes the meat noticeably more tender.

Why the must is cooked down first

The beginning of every balsamic is grape must, which is fresh-pressed and cooked down openly for hours until one-third to one-half has evaporated. What remains is the mosto cotto—dark, thick, and so sugar-rich that it tastes sweet on its own. This reduction is the step that distinguishes a balsamic from any other culinary vinegar.

Only then does the aging in wood begin, which gives the mixture rest and balances the sweetness with the acidity of the wine vinegar. Greenomic Delikatessen has this work done in an Italian acetaia, and the apple juice contributes the fruit note that separates this vinegar from a dark Aceto.

The entry into the world of fruit vinegars

If you have only ever had dark Aceto in your kitchen, start with the Apple Balsamic because it requires little and forgives much. It pairs equally well with oil, honey, and mustard and never dominates a mixture. Over fresh fruit, such as pear slices with crème fraîche, it then shows its sweet side.

In a dark cupboard, the sealed bottle will last for many months even after being opened. The stronger varieties await in the balsamic selection, and what else Greenomic Delikatessen brings from Italy can be found on the brand's shelf.